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Château de Vincennes

The tallest medieval keep in Europe, inside a moated enclosure

Château de Vincennes
Photograph: Selbymay / CC BY-SA 3.0

The Château de Vincennes sits on the eastern edge of Paris and keeps the tallest medieval keep in Europe, a 52m donjon finished in the 1360s inside its own moat. It began as a royal hunting lodge, became a fortress and a prison, and later a military arsenal. The site is large, stony and mostly empty of furniture, which is part of the point. Two hours covers it.

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Getting there

Take Métro 1 to its eastern terminus, Château de Vincennes, about 20 minutes from Châtelet with no change. The exit puts you on the Cours des Maréchaux and the gatehouse is a two-minute walk. RER A to Vincennes station also works and leaves you about ten minutes south of the castle. The Bois de Vincennes begins immediately behind the walls, so you can arrive by Métro and leave on foot through the park.

What you see

You pass the Tour du Village gatehouse into a long walled enclosure, with the keep on your left behind its own bridge and moat. Inside the donjon you climb floor by floor through vaulted chambers, including the king's chamber with its central pillar and the graffiti left by later prisoners, and come out on the terrace for a view over the park towards the city. The Sainte-Chapelle de Vincennes stands opposite, a tall single-vessel chapel on the Paris Sainte-Chapelle model, with Renaissance glass in the apse. The rest of the enclosure is open ground, curtain wall and the classical pavilions at the far end.

What to pair it with

The Bois de Vincennes is the obvious companion, with the Parc Floral and the lake at Daumesnil. The Palais de la Porte Dorée and its tropical aquarium sit on the same Métro 1 corridor, and the Parc Zoologique de Paris is on the far side of the wood.

When to go

Mornings are quiet; this is one of the few major monuments in Paris where you can usually walk straight in. Autumn and winter suit the stonework and the views, since the keep terrace is more open with the trees bare. Avoid a wet day, because much of the visit is outdoors between buildings. The site closes on at least one public holiday a year, so check before you go.

What is hard about it

The keep is a long spiral and stair climb with no lift, and the climb is the visit. The rooms are bare, so if you want tapestries and painted ceilings you will find this austere. Signage inside is limited and the audioguide or a guided tour makes a large difference. The outer enclosure is still partly military and closed off, so the castle you walk is smaller than the walls suggest.

Common questions

How long do you need at Vincennes?

Two hours is right for the keep, the chapel and the enclosure. Add an hour or two if you carry on into the Bois de Vincennes.

Is it worth the trip from the centre?

If you want medieval military architecture rather than palace interiors, yes. It is 20 minutes on one Métro line and far quieter than comparable sites.

Can you go inside the keep?

Yes, the donjon is the main part of the visit, climbed floor by floor. It occasionally shuts for works, so check before you travel.

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